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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.